Moreover, some private auctions also grant roasters and green coffee buyers access to more limited-edition or ultra-rare lots. In turn, these coffees can then be marketed as more premium and unique offerings. 

As part of this, auctions which focus on one specific variety or species (usually more exclusive coffee varieties such as Gesha) are becoming more popular.

To find out more, I spoke with Max Perez, owner of Finca La Hermosa in Guatemala, and Leonor Xiao, founder and green coffee buyer at Canasto Coffee Co. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on virtual coffee auctions.

What are private auctions and how do they work?

Although private auctions are a relatively new concept in the coffee industry, green coffee has been traded at auction for centuries. Typically, green coffee auctions are hosted by importers, exporters, non-government organisations, or other industry stakeholders in producing countries.

Auctions are often held in person, but more and more are starting to take place online. This allows buyers from all over the world to attend – making them much more accessible. 

As with any type of auction, buyers place bids on different green coffee lots. Once an auction starts, buyers will bid in specific increments until all coffees have at least one bid each, or until at least a specific amount of time has passed where no bidding has taken place.

Prior to an auction, all submitted coffees are cupped and scored blind by professional Q graders. This is done using the Specialty Coffee Association 100-point scale. This is so the bidders have an idea of the level of quality for each coffee.

Moreover, at some competitions prior to auctions, all coffees must score at least 86 points to advance to the next assessment stage. Ultimately, this required level of quality has helped to drive innovation at green coffee auctions even further.

High quality & even higher prices

Over the past two decades, the prices paid for coffee at auctions have been increasing more and more.

The first example was in 2004. That year, Hacienda La Esmerelda sold one of its Geshas for US $21/lb at the Best of Panama (BoP) auction. At the time, this was a world record for the highest price ever paid for a coffee.

Fast forward to 2021 and a honey processed Gesha produced by Elida Estate sold for a staggering US $6,034/lb. This is by far the most expensive coffee in the world.

Naturally, these astonishingly high prices have influenced more and more producers to co-host their own private auctions.

A private green coffee auction is a useful way for producers or co-operatives to showcase their more exclusive and ultra-rare lots. To participate in these auctions, buyers must register online in advance. As there are also a limited number of spots available, registrants may have to pay a fee to take part in the auction. Roasters may also have to purchase samples of the coffees they want to buy beforehand.

Why are these auctions becoming more popular?

Broadly speaking, specialty coffee places a lot of value on quality, transparency, traceability, and sustainability. In line with this, demand for higher-quality, more exclusive coffee varieties (and even species) has grown over the past decade or so.

“Private auctions are becoming increasingly popular because demand for more unique and exclusive specialty coffee is growing,” Max says. “These auctions offer buyers the opportunity to access limited-edition and rare coffee lots which aren’t usually available on the wider market.”

Max also explains how producers can use private auctions as platforms to market their coffees in different ways.

“These auctions also allow sellers to control the buying process, potentially generate higher profits, and create a sense of exclusivity around their coffees,” he tells me. 

Leonor agrees, saying: “After the auction, the producer can label the coffee as an auction lot to emphasise its exclusivity.

“Moreover, private auction coffee lots are usually small in size,” she adds. “This can mean that producers may receive a higher price for them because a single buyer will usually purchase their coffee.”

What about single-variety coffee auctions?

Alongside private auctions in general, the number of more niche auctions has noticeably increased over the past few years. These include:

• Single origin auctions (with all coffees produced in the same country, region, or even farm)
• Auctions which include coffees from a single producer, co-operative, or exporter
• Single-variety auctions, which focus specifically on one variety of coffee

One example is the Gesha Forest auction by Finca La Hermosa, which will take place online on 5 July 2023. 

“The auction will feature a variety of our Gesha coffees, each with its own unique flavour profile, aroma, and characteristics,” Max tells me. “It will also include Gesha coffee lots from different origins, including Guatemala, Panama, Tanzania, and Ethiopia. 

“The lots (some of which are organic) will also be available in different processing methods, such as washed, natural and anaerobic,” he adds. “These different processing techniques showcase the versatility and complexity of Gesha coffee.”

Gesha is one of the most-sought after varieties in the specialty coffee sector. Known for its exceptional cup quality and its ability to receive high prices, the variety has dominated auctions over the past decade or so.

“The Gesha Forest project by Finca La Hermosa involves meticulous farming practices to grow, harvest, and process Gesha coffee to ensure the highest quality coffee possible,” Max explains. “The unique microclimate and volcanic soil of Finca La Hermosa, which is located on the slopes of the Acatenango volcano in Guatemala, make it an ideal environment for growing Gesha.”

Leonor tells me that the variety is particularly popular in East Asia, including in China, where consumers are often more willing to pay higher prices for more exclusive and rare coffee.

“Gesha always stands out on the cupping table as it usually receives higher scores,” she says.

What are the benefits of buying rare coffee from private auctions?

For producers who have the infrastructure and financial resources, there are a number of benefits to hosting private auctions.

“These platforms are an opportunity to showcase producers’ hard work and dedication, potentially receive higher prices, and build long-term relationships with buyers,” Max says. 

“Private auctions can also promote transparency, traceability, and sustainability in the specialty coffee industry.

“Auctions like the Gesha Forest by Finca La Hermosa can showcase a producer’s commitment to sustainable and environmentally-friendly farming practices, thereby promoting a more responsible and conscious coffee industry,” he adds.

In terms of traceability, Leonor explains that auctions can be useful platforms for both farmers and roasters.

“Producers know where their coffee is going when it’s bought through auctions,” she says. “Private auctions can be a link between producers and roasters.

“Moreover, receiving feedback from roasters, traders, and producers will help to make auctions more meaningful and impactful,” she adds.

What about roasters?

When it comes to roasters, there are several advantages to attending green coffee auctions – especially for those who want to sell and market more premium and rare coffees.

“Roasters have access to more unique and exclusive lots,” Max tells me. “This enables them to differentiate their coffees and potentially attract a broader range of consumers.”

Looking at Gesha specifically, the variety is more commonly found in Panama and Ethiopia – and also recently in Colombia, too. Many specialty coffee consumers place significant value on more exclusive varieties sourced from new origins. For instance, sourcing coffee from farms outside of these origins, such as Finca La Hermosa in Guatemala, can be a unique selling point for roasters.

“By buying coffees from auctions, roasters have an opportunity to showcase their recognition of high-quality coffees, and thereby add value to their brand,” Leonor concludes.

Private auctions, as well as auctions more generally, play a role in driving specialty coffee forward. For those who have the capacity and buying power to attend, they can experience some extraordinary coffees that they may not be able to find elsewhere.

With demand for more exclusive coffees only growing in certain markets, we’re sure to see private auctions continue to be a point of conversation in the coffee industry going forward.

Enjoyed this? Then read our guide to green coffee auctions.

Photo credits: Finca La Hermosa

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However, there are also a number of intermediaries in the coffee supply chain, including those who mill, transport, and export coffee in producing countries. 

And while these actors can certainly play an important role, their presence in the supply chain can often mean that producers end up receiving a smaller percentage of the final price of each cup of coffee.

This is especially important to note. According to the International Trade Centre’s Coffee Exporter’s Guide, producers often retain as little as 10% of the final retail price of coffee. Conversely, other supply chain actors, such as roasters, retain much more value.

In light of this, we have seen direct trade become much more prominent in specialty coffee over the years. This is a model which allows producers to work more closely with roasters in a manner which is mutually beneficial. As part of this, farmers can receive higher prices for their coffee.

However, when it comes to “relationship coffee”, there is much more to consider than just paying a higher price. To find out more, I spoke with Oscar Daza, a producer in Colombia, and Martin Mayorga, founder and CEO of Mayorga Coffee. Read on to find out what they had to say.

You may also like our article on whether direct trade is an effective model in specialty coffee.

What is direct trade in specialty coffee?

Under more traditional trade models, farmers with no or little access to a local mill will sell their coffee as cherry. This means they often receive lower prices because less value is added to the coffee at the time of sale. This is especially pertinent as according to data from Enveritas, some 5.5 million smallholder coffee farmers currently live below the poverty line.

There is no formal definition of “direct trade” in the coffee industry. However, many roasters and producers understand the term as working in direct partnership with each other in a way that provides mutual benefits. Ultimately, the idea is to build a stronger and more resilient supply chain for all involved.

A large part of this revolves around roasters paying producers higher prices for their coffee. However, price isn’t everything – direct trade also often means more open communication between producers and roasters, as well as more transparency with consumers.

Communication and partnerships

“Communication is a key part of any relationship,” Martin tells me. “In the coffee supply chain, it’s even more important because some intermediaries can create barriers between producers and other supply chain actors, as well as being selective with the information they pass along to buyers.”

Martin adds that Mayorga’s direct trade model focuses on partnering with producers, rather than just buying from them. He emphasises that they work closely with producers towards achieving a shared vision of improving quality, sustainability, and financial security.

“Mayorga Coffee only engages with producers when there is mutual agreement on quality, pricing, and contractual terms,” he explains. “We share information with farmers about how we operate, which provides them with a better perspective of our business.

“Producers can then talk freely with us about their needs and the challenges they face so that we can help one another to achieve our shared goals,” he adds.

Why is “relationship coffee” about more than paying higher prices?

We often talk about relationship coffee in the specialty coffee sector, but what does it actually mean?

While industry professionals and consumers alike agree that producers need to receive higher prices for coffee, the concept of “relationship coffee” is much more holistic. 

Similar to direct trade, there is no formal definition of “relationship coffee”. However, the term generally refers to working relationships between roasters and producers which are developed over years. 

The idea behind these partnerships is to encourage long-term buying, rather than roasters making a smaller number of one-off purchases. At the same time, roasters often commit to a higher price for coffee, but as we’ve established – this isn’t the only thing which characterises a healthy direct trade relationship between farmer and buyer.

Ultimately, working relationships like these can mitigate the risks associated with the volatility of the C market, helping producers to earn a more sustainable income.

Part of the reason that producers struggle to retain as much value in origin is because the coffee industry was built on colonial structures which are hundreds of years old. To overcome these inequities, better empower coffee producers, and alleviate systemic poverty, we do need to pay more for coffee –  but we also need to talk about stability in a much wider context.

For instance, when a producer is assured that a roaster is committed to buying some of their coffee each year, they have more capacity to experiment with new farming practices or processing techniques, or invest in new machinery and equipment. 

While it will take a substantial amount of time for the benefits of these investments to pay themselves off, there is less risk involved when farmers have a stable, committed long-term trading partner.

Building trust

As a producer, Oscar says that building trust is key to making these working relationships successful and sustainable in the long term.

“Through shared trust, relationship coffee allows information about production, harvest, origin, processing methods, and more to reach the final consumer,” he says. “Paying farmers a higher price is not always the most important thing – it’s also about the relationships that supply chain actors build with each other.

“For instance, Mayorga Coffee’s direct trade model helps to empower coffee producers in Latin America because it improves sustainability in the long term,” he continues. “Producers know that by growing high-quality coffee, roasters like Mayorga will always be willing to buy their coffee because they trust us.”

Martin agrees, saying: “Like any relationship, it starts with human interaction and having genuine interest in the other person and the realities they face.

“These relationships can’t develop after visiting farms a few days a year,” he adds. “You need to learn the language or hire a local person to assist with talking to producers.”

In turn, producers and roasters are able to communicate more openly and effectively.

“Ask uncomfortable questions like ‘how much interest do you pay for financing?’,” Martin says. “If we don’t learn the realities of the problems which farmers deal with, we’ll never be able to fix them.

“This is critical: be humble, learn, listen, and then work together,” he adds. “It’s not the job of roasters to save producers – instead they are there to be part of a necessary shift in how we talk about and trade coffee.”

Why should more roasters buy direct trade coffee?

When using more traditional trade models, it becomes more difficult to effectively trace the origin of a specific coffee, especially for end consumers. Roasters, meanwhile, may know roughly where the coffee comes from, but might not be able to explain who grew or harvested it.

However, with more and more consumers looking to learn about the people who grow their coffee, transparency and traceability are more important than ever. 

In turn, roasters and baristas have started to disseminate more information about coffee production. This includes:

• Different varieties
• Processing techniques
• How terroir and altitude affect flavour profiles

Open communication between farmers and roasters can help to provide as much information as possible about coffee. Furthermore, as part of developing closer working relationships, roasters are able to discuss a number of factors with producers. 

For instance, a roaster can explain how well a particular coffee has sold or what kind of sensory profiles their customers are looking for. As a result, producers can diversify and focus on different farming practices or processing methods to cater to these preferences.

More open communication channels also work in a similar way for producers. They can tell roasters which farming practices or processing methods are the most profitable, as well as which ones aren’t suitable for them.

When implemented effectively, relationship coffee can have a number of benefits for farmers.

“Mayorga Coffee has helped to rebuild homes, establish better financing models, create new opportunities for farmers through crop diversification systems, provide more formal education with the help of agronomists and, most importantly, be a long-term, consistent customer for them,” Martin explains.

Raising awareness of complex issues

However, he emphasises that it’s essential for roasters to not see themselves as “saviours” in these situations.

“Too much of the direct trade model is marketed as a means to support producers, while in reality, it’s a way for coffee companies to gain credibility,” Martin says. “Some companies present more simple ‘solutions’, like paying more for coffee or claiming that blockchain will solve producers’ problems.

“These ‘solutions’ are out of touch with the reality that many producers are facing,” he adds. “It’s not possible to create simple solutions to a very complex problem that has been active for over 200 years.”

Oscar tells me that relationship coffee and direct trade models can provide farmers with more security, too.

“There are many factors that sometimes complicate coffee production,” he says. “These include unpredictable weather conditions, price volatility, logistical problems, or political instability.

“Ultimately, trust between supply chain actors helps coffee production to be sustainable in the long term,” he adds.

It’s clear to see that historic inequities continue to influence the realities of farmers across the coffee industry. At the same time, we also know that one solution which is often proposed is to simply pay more for each bag of coffee.

However, in order to address these issues in a comprehensive way, we must do more than pay a higher price for coffee. A holistic approach focused on healthy, stable, long-term trading relationships will support and empower smallholder coffee farmers to invest and improve in the long term.

Want to learn more about Mayorga Coffee? Read about Mayorga’s PRF El Salvador Diamond Sponsorship here.

Photo credits: Mayorga Coffee

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To add to this, El Salvador also boasts unique microclimates and terroir which contribute to the production of high-quality coffee. As a result, at the 2022 Cup of Excellence (CoE) El Salvador auction, four coffees received over 90 points – certainly an indication of growing quality.

However, while quality is clearly on the up, prices still haven’t caught up with it. But these scores at auctions naturally draw comparisons to other producing countries with a reputation for high-scoring coffees. Among these is Panama.

This begs an important question. The story of Panamanian Gesha is familiar to specialty coffee professionals all around the world. So, with a unique variety already associated with El Salvador that can clearly yield outstanding quality – could the country also leverage Pacamara to achieve similar results?

To find out more, I spoke with two Salvadoran coffee professionals. Read on to find out what they had to say about the future of the country’s coffee sector.

Interested in attending a world-leading coffee event in El Salvador? Learn more about PRF El Salvador here.

A history of coffee in El Salvador

Before we discuss El Salvador’s potential and whether or not Pacamara can be leveraged like Gesha, we first need to look back at its history of coffee production.

It’s believed that coffee was introduced to El Salvador around 1740. In the years following, coffee quickly became one of the country’s biggest cash crops. 

By 1880, exports of coffee had significantly surpassed other commodities, especially indigo (a natural dye), which was also another major cash crop. In fact, between the late 1800s and mid-1900s, El Salvador was known as “the Coffee Republic”.

To encourage the continuing growth of the country’s coffee sector, the Salvadoran government offered farmers a number of benefits. These included a seven-year coffee tax exemption, as well as immunity from partaking in military service. 

However, following a civil war which began in 1980, the country underwent a period of significant political and economic turmoil. In turn, El Salvador’s coffee production dropped by an estimated 19%.

In 2014, the Salvadoran government began to focus on reviving production, but since then, annual production volumes have yet to reach historic highs. 

Between 1963 and 1989, the country produced an average of 2.5 million 60kg bags every year. According to the United States Department of Agriculture, El Salvador will produce some 619,000 60kg bags in the 2022/23 harvest season.

What makes Salvadoran coffee unique?

Although El Salvador currently produces significantly less coffee than in previous years, the country is renowned for its high-quality shade-grown varieties. The most popular are:

• Pacamara – a variety which originated from a cross between Pacas and Maragogype.
• Pacas – a natural mutation of Bourbon, similar to Caturra in Brazil and Villa Sarchi in Costa Rica.
• Bourbon – a tall-growing plant characterised by its low yields and high cup quality.

Rodrigo Giammattei is the General Manager at Café Caté, an exporter and roaster in El Salvador and Canada.

Rodrigo explains that because high-yielding varieties were never introduced to farmers, and many farms aren’t located in areas which receive intense sunlight, more than 50% of the country’s farms plant high-quality varieties.

However, this wasn’t always the case. Rodrigo adds that in the early 1900s, Bourbon, Pacas, and Pacamara collectively only made up around 4% of the coffee plants on Salvadoran farms. Today, the International Coffee Organisation estimates that Bourbon alone accounts for 62% of the country’s coffee production. Pacas and Pacamara, meanwhile, account for around 31% and 2%, respectively.

Moreover, El Salvador’s fertile volcanic soil, high altitudes, and vast expanses of shade cover also help to produce high-quality coffee with unique and desirable sensory profiles.

Maria Pacas is a producer at Café Pacas in El Salvador. She explains that coffee is emblematic for Salvadoran people. This is because much of the country’s infrastructure was developed as a result of its booming coffee sector, which has led many producers to feel passionate about their work.

Unique varieties

At Café Pacas, Maria says there are 64 different varieties, one of which was first discovered on one of its farms. 

She explains that when Café Pacas first acquired Finca Los Boletos, farm manager Ruperto Bernardina Meche found five coffee plants which produced different kinds of cherries.

The producers then harvested and processed these cherries separately to others on the farm. Samples were sent to traders and roasters, who scored these coffees 90 points or more.

When tests were conducted, results came back inconclusive – their genetic lineage was effectively unknown. However, we now know the coffee as the Bernardina variety – named after the farmer who discovered it. 

“Many people believe that Bernadina is a natural mutation between Bourbon and Pacas, which were already growing in El Salvador,” Maria says.

In terms of its genetics, Bernadina is 70% identical to Gesha, while the remaining 30% of its genetic material has been linked to coffee from the Agaro region in Ethiopia. This results in a highly desirable flavour profile, with some coffee professionals describing notes of jasmine and stone fruit flavours.

Could varieties like Pacamara become more exclusive?

Given its association with high-quality shade-grown coffee and the point scores that their lots are capable of, there is clearly potential for Salvadoran coffee to become more sought-after.

As mentioned previously, there are comparisons emerging between El Salvador and Panama – another Central American country which is known for producing highly-prized coffee.

Despite the fact that Gesha originated from Ethiopia, it is mostly associated with Panama’s coffee sector. Gesha took the global coffee industry by storm in 2004 when it received US $21/lb at the 2004 Best of Panama (BoP) auction – a record high at the time.

In the years since, prices paid for Gesha have only continued to increase. In fact, at the 2022 BoP auction, the top-scoring coffee received the highest-ever bid of US $2,000.49/lb. Proud Mary Coffee recently sold the coffee – a natural processed Gesha – for US $150 per cup at its US locations.

However, although El Salvador is growing more and more 90+ point coffees, prices paid per pound are still an astronomical distance from those paid for record-breaking Panamanian coffees. So, is there scope for this to improve? And could Pacamara come to rival Gesha?

How important is marketing?

“We have the terroir, we have the varieties, we have the soil quality, and we have the farming best practices,” Rodrigo says. “We just need to improve our marketing skills.”#

Marketing is a key topic at every step of the coffee supply chain – and production is no exception. And there’s no doubt that it has been a key part of the journey of Panama Gesha; the Central American country is now arguably more associated with one of specialty coffee’s most well-known varieties than Ethiopia, where it originally comes from.

A huge part of this is BoP – clearly a platform which Panama leveraged to catapult Gesha to become a new darling of specialty coffee in the mid-2000s. This was a marketing push the likes of which specialty coffee hadn’t really seen before.

Maria agrees with Rodrigo, saying: “When you market your company, you need to highlight what makes your brand different and unique.

“Sadly, Salvadoran producers have not been able to highlight those differences as effectively as possible so that consumers notice and appreciate them more,” she adds.

If this were to change, producers could push Pacamara as an individual variety renowned for its quality and one that grows predominantly in El Salvador.

Exclusive boutique auctions for high-scoring lots, partnerships with third wave coffee roasters associated with innovation, and investment at trade shows in major consuming countries could all be ways to push this – but this would require a lot of funding.

Differentiation is key

Although comparisons to Panama are somewhat applicable, Maria emphasises that El Salvador still needs to retain its uniqueness.

“I don’t think the goal should be for El Salvador to become another Panama because our country’s coffee sector is very different to Panama’s,” she says. “Our farming practices, our varieties, and our producers all make our sector unique, so we need to highlight all of these characteristics.”

The question now is whether or not marketing efforts like BoP are replicable in other producing countries like El Salvador.

In reality, the investment required promises no results, especially when we consider that BoP holds most of the market share and almost all of the awareness for auctions of its kind.

Along with Gesha, the Pacamara variety consistently receives some of the highest scores at the CoE El Salvador competitions thanks to its exceptional cup quality. However, its beans are very large, which can pose challenges for roasters.

“From my own experience roasting Pacamara, you need to drop the temperature slightly before loading the roaster,” Rodrigo says. “Per batch, we also roast 20% less volume than we would with the Bourbon variety grown at a similar altitude.”

Looking to the future

As we’ve established, there is clearly plenty of potential for Salvadoran coffee. A big part of this includes hosting more groundbreaking coffee industry events, such as PRF El Salvador, which will take place on 16 and 17 March 2023 at the Salamanca Exhibition Centre in San Salvador.

However, both Maria and Rodrigo agree that the future of the country’s coffee sector ultimately depends on whether producers can market Pacamara and other varieties on the international stage.

Moreover, they say it’s also important that Salvadoran producers work together on these efforts. As part of this, there needs to be more encouragement for more women and younger people to join the coffee sector.

The role of women and young people

Maria explains that historically, there has been little collaboration between Salvadoran producers. She says this is largely because of differences in opinion. However, in recent months, we have seen the inclusion of women and younger people bolster co-operation in the sector.

“The inclusion of women in the Salvadoran coffee sector has been fundamental,” Maria tells me. “Producers are able to openly share farming practices, processing techniques, and how they market their coffee.”

Rodrigo says that some farmers are starting to focus more on producing higher yields, while others are looking to grow more pest and climate-resilient varieties. And given that rainfall is both increasing and becoming more unpredictable in El Salvador, adapting to the impact of climate change is an important consideration for many.

However, Rodrigo adds that these new varieties can sometimes produce lower-quality coffee. Ultimately, he says maintaining a balance between quality, quantity, and resiliency to pests, diseases, and climate change will be key to the future of the country’s coffee sector.

It’s clear that El Salvador is well on its way to becoming a “boutique” coffee origin – especially with industry-leading events like PRF set to take place in the country in the coming months. 

However, given that El Salvador can’t compete as a high-volume origin, the question for the years ahead lies in how well the country can compete against more exclusive origins, such as Panama. Marketing is one key component of this, but this is a complex challenge that has no overnight solution.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on speakers and panellists for PRF El Salvador.

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The latter is an indication that global demand for robusta has been increasing in recent months – thanks in part to rising arabica prices in 2021 and 2022, which have since fallen to around US 180 cents/lb.

Despite this growth in demand, compared to arabica, robusta has historically been perceived as lower-quality coffee. However, it’s important to distinguish the differences between the two in terms of production – and how this results in a different product for both roasters and consumers.

Moreover, with the impact of climate change threatening the future of the coffee industry as we know it today, investing in robusta production is becoming more and more essential. This is especially pertinent considering that robusta is much more climate-resilient than arabica.  

So, in light of this, how has robusta production developed in recent years, and how can improving robusta farming practices benefit both producers and roasters? To find out, I spoke with four people at one of the biggest global green coffee importers, Mercon Coffee Group.

You may also like our article on whether coffee roasters should add robusta to blends if arabica prices increase.

An overview of robusta production

In addition to three of the world’s top five coffee-producing countries, robusta is also grown in many other origins. These include India and Uganda (where it can sometimes grow at similar altitudes to arabica). However, more recently, robusta has also been growing in Nicaragua.

Robusta tends to have a higher yield per plant than arabica and is typically more resistant to a number of pests and diseases. In turn, this means it is usually cheaper for coffee farmers to grow robusta.

Although it is also theoretically easier for producers to grow robusta, there is a gap when it comes to formal agricultural best practices in commercial robusta production. This significantly contributes to the perception that commercial robusta is of lower quality than arabica, as there are fewer quality control measures along the supply chain.

However, it’s vital that we differentiate between commodity-grade and fine robusta. While there is little regard to quality with the former, the latter focuses on much stricter standards.

For example, according to the Fine Robusta Standards and Protocols, fine robusta should have no primary defects (such as fungus damage or full black beans) and no more than five secondary defects (including broken or partial sour beans).

Ultimately, these standards help to establish fine robusta as a unique product which is significantly higher-quality than commercial robusta.

Why is improving robusta quality so important?

Although arabica is generally of higher quality than robusta, it is significantly less climate-resilient.

In recent years, this is becoming an increasingly pressing issue in the coffee industry. According to a 2022 study, as a result of rising temperatures due to climate change, researchers predict that the world’s top five producing countries will experience a reduction in both the size and suitability of their coffee-growing areas by 2050.

If levels of carbon emissions are to remain the same, this could have a major impact on the global coffee industry – especially considering that arabica accounts for 60% to 70% of the global coffee supply and is much more vulnerable to temperature fluctuations.

Neil Oney is a green coffee quality specialist at Mercon Specialty.

“As the effects of climate change worsen, we may see fewer farmers growing arabica,” he tells me. “Arabica production requires more stable environmental conditions than growing robusta.

“Moreover, you can grow robusta at sea level,” he adds. “Therefore, we might see more arabica farmers located at lower altitudes switch to growing robusta.”

Another issue that is likely to become more prominent as weather patterns get more erratic is the threat of pests and diseases. For example, cases of coffee leaf rust (also known as la roya), which is a result of a fungus, are likely to rise if rainfall and humidity levels increase and become more unpredictable.

With robusta naturally being more resistant to pests and diseases, the need to invest in implementing best agricultural practices is essential.

“The more that we work to improve robusta quality, the more that consumers will start to demand it – which is beneficial to everyone in the coffee supply chain,” Neil says.

So, how is robusta grown in Nicaragua?

Robusta is grown in many countries, so there is significant potential to improve how it is produced around the world.

Mario Hurtado is the Agricultural Division Manager at Mercon in Nicaragua. He tells me that on the Caribbean coast of Nicaragua in Central America, Mercon Specialty is working with more than 1,000 producers to implement agricultural best practices to improve robusta quality.

“Fifteen years ago, robusta production in Nicaragua didn’t exist, so robusta is still relatively new to most farmers here,” he says. “In the years since, we have been working to develop robusta production, as well as conducting research into a number of variables, including which varieties to plant, different harvesting and drying techniques, and the quantity and types of farming inputs to use, to name a few.

“Today, producers have a lot of knowledge and experience about how to successfully grow robusta, but we are still learning how to improve yields, coffee quality, and profitability even further,” he adds.

John Gardina is the Director of Sales Americas at Mercon.

“Robusta production in Nicaragua has improved significantly in recent years,” he says. “According to our data, the country will produce around 120,000 60kg bags of robusta in 2022/23, which will be the first year ever that robusta production rises above 100,000 60kg bags.”

How has the country’s robusta production changed over the years?

This is especially significant for Nicaraguan coffee farmers. Before 2016, the country had strict laws on how close robusta could be grown to arabica, which meant producers had to plant robusta no less than 30km away from arabica, as well as other geographical and altitudinal restrictions.

Adolfo Lugo is the Origin Corporate Manager at Mercon. He explains that this law is still enforced to help preserve the quality of the coffee produced in Nicaragua, but in the years since, it has been modified several times.

He also tells me that in regions that were historically used to raise cattle, many farmers decided to start growing coffee, but they had very little infrastructure and support. In these cases, he says Mercon’s LIFT Program has helped local farmers to build their capacity for coffee production.

“The LIFT initiative has been fundamental to improving the quality of robusta,” he says, adding that farmers who take part in the LIFT platform should complete up to 26 courses that focus on sustainable coffee production, social development, and environmental impact. 

He explains that as part of the LIFT platform, Mercon also provides technical support, as well as access to finance and certifications. Moreover, he tells me that Mercon encourages producers to grow robusta at lower altitudes on degraded pastures which are located away from arabica farms.

John tells me that cultivating different varieties of robusta is further advancing overall quality.

“Through our seedlings project in Nicaragua, we have cloned certain robusta varieties,” he explains. “This has helped us to disseminate higher-quality robusta seedlings to local producers, which not only produce higher yields, but also produce a similar cup profile to what roasters are looking for.”

Improving harvesting techniques

Mario explains that an understanding of terroir is especially important for growing high-quality robusta.

“In the regions where Mercon helps producers grow robusta in Nicaragua, conditions such as soil quality, rainfall, and temperature all help to improve the quality of the coffee,” he tells me.

John adds that developments in harvesting have also helped to increase robusta quality.

“Typically, when harvesting robusta, producers will strip all cherries off the branch,” he says. “However, when they adhere to harvesting best practices, producers pick only the ripe cherries.

“It’s more time-consuming and expensive to do it this way, but it significantly improves robusta quality,” he adds.

How does improving robusta quality benefit producers and roasters?

Ultimately, with more and more arabica farmers facing the threat of climate change, developing new techniques to grow higher-quality coffee is one way of safeguarding the future of the industry. But how does it benefit both producers and roasters?

“In the region of Nueva Guinea, although cattle rearing is still the biggest generator of income, robusta farming is more labour intensive, so it has helped to create more jobs for local people,” Adolfo says.

John agrees, saying: “Robusta production has brought prosperity to the region – for example, new roads are being built.

“More and more people are requesting seedlings from us, which clearly shows that robusta production is providing economic benefits,” he adds. “Mercon also has an office and a mill in the region, so we’re also providing financial support and technical assistance.”

“For Nicaraguan farmers, learning how to grow robusta has been a slow and costly learning curve,” Mario says. “There has been plenty of trial and error, however, a few years ago, we developed a set of agricultural best practices which have been working effectively.”

For roasters, meanwhile, there are many benefits to including more robusta as part of their offerings. These include reducing costs – especially when the C price or operational costs are especially high.

“When using fine robusta, roasters can add it to blends to reduce their costs,” Neil says. “Furthermore, because roasters are paying more for higher-quality robusta, farmers are also receiving more equitable prices.

“Some years ago, some roasters didn’t believe that Nicaragua produces robusta,” he adds. “It’s been challenging to convince people to buy robusta, but there is growing interest from specialty roasters.”

Fine robusta – a marketing tool?

As well as being a dependable component for specialty coffee blends, fine robusta can also be a unique selling point for roasters to market as single origin coffees.

“Fine robusta can have many desirable characteristics, such as notes of chocolate, fruit, and spice, as well as clean-tasting flavours, which represents some of the robusta we are growing in Nueva Guinea, Nicaragua,” John says. “It can also add complexity, thereby creating a new product which the roaster might not have offered before.”

“Mercon is also focusing on honey processed robustas, which are gaining more interest from the specialty coffee sector,” Neil concludes.

Despite historical misconceptions about commercial robusta being lower quality, there is undoubtedly potential for coffee farmers to grow more fine robusta. As long as they receive the right support and assistance, robusta producers can implement farming best practices and thereby improve overall quality.

And with the effects of climate change continuing to pose a threat to the future of the global coffee industry, investing in robusta production has never been more important.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on trends in experimental coffee processing.

Photo credits: Mercon Coffee Group

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However, we also know that you need a well-developed palate to pick out more nuanced tasting notes. But in order to develop your palate, you need to drink a range of coffees – including different origins, varieties, and processing methods.

One of the most common situations where industry professionals taste and evaluate coffees is at cuppings. However, when it comes to tasting and scoring coffees, we often overlook the influence of age.

There is clear evidence that as we age, our senses of smell and taste begin to temporarily (or even permanently) change – which undoubtedly influences how we perceive coffee flavour.

So, this leads us to an important question: should we account for age differences when cupping and scoring coffee?

To find out, I spoke with Gary Au, co-founder of Urban Coffee Roasters in Hong Kong, and Nick Castellano, Product Marketing Specialist at Cropster. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our beginner’s guide to cupping coffee & improving your palate.

Do our palates change with age?

It’s an inevitable fact that as we age, our senses start to deteriorate – albeit at different rates depending on a number of factors. These can include existing health conditions and access to medical care, for example.

Most people tend to think of losing hearing and sight when discussing ageing, but research has shown that we also lose our senses of smell and taste, too.

For instance, a 2006 study found that our senses of smell and taste begin to decline around the age of 60. Moreover, by the age 70, there is a “severe” loss of both senses – meaning our ability to distinguish between flavours diminishes, including for coffee.

This is largely a result of a decline in the number of olfactory receptors in the nasal cavity, which we use to recognise aroma – which also plays a key role in perceiving flavour. As well as this, there is also a decline in the rate of the regeneration of receptor cells as we age, so our senses of smell and taste eventually become less sharp.

Conversely, childrens’ senses of smell and taste are highly sensitive – especially to sweet and salty flavours. A 2005 study from the Monell Chemical Senses Centre found that newborn babies could detect sweeter flavours, and would often prefer them over non-sweet flavours. 

Evidence shows, however, that somewhere between adolescence and adulthood, our palates begin to develop more. This is largely a result of trying different foods and cuisines, which exposes us to a wider variety of flavours and textures. In turn, we become more accustomed to the five taste elements: sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami.

What about unconventional flavour notes?

In simple terms, there are five main aspects of a coffee’s sensory profile: acidity, sweetness, bitterness, body, and aftertaste. But alongside these aspects, we also discuss specific tasting notes.

Many industry professionals use the Specialty Coffee Association’s Flavor Wheel to identify specific characteristics and flavours in coffee. There is certainly criticism of the Flavour Wheel – mostly because it is geared more towards European and North American palates than those in producing countries.

The wheel was first published in 1995, and has since been reworked to include a more diverse vocabulary of 110 flavour, texture, and aroma characteristics. For instance, the “fruity” category alone includes four subcategories, which all contain at least another two subcategories – including raisin, cherry, coconut, and lemon, to name a few.

For the most part, notes of chocolate, caramel, nuts, and fruit are fairly common to find on coffee packaging. However, in recent years, it’s been impossible to ignore the rising number of specialty roasters who use more unconventional flavour notes.

Why are flavour notes becoming more distinctive?

In many specialty coffee shops around the world, it’s not uncommon to see more niche and interesting flavour notes. For example, some of the 2021 World Barista Championship finalists used “cake batter”, “melted chocolate ice cream”, and “banana custard” to describe the flavours in their coffee.

While Gary thinks this is largely a result of using more unique coffee species and varieties, as well as more experimental processing techniques, Nick says he believes it’s also the influence of younger generations.

“Generally speaking, I think younger people are more inclined to try [these types of coffees] – such as the ‘new’ or ‘crazy’ fermented coffees which have unique and interesting flavours,” he says. “In my opinion, it also helps people who are new to specialty coffee to engage with it more.”

Gary agrees, saying: “In my experience, people who are new to specialty coffee tend to prefer the new and interesting flavours, and they are often able to taste the flavour notes described on the packaging.”

Should we factor in generational differences when cupping coffee?

Research indicates that as we age, we are less likely to perceive the full spectrum of flavours in coffee. Undoubtedly, this is especially important when it comes to cupping and scoring coffee.

Gary and Nick both attended the 2022 Best of Panama Auction last year, where it was clear that age made a significant difference in scoring coffees. It’s important to note that all of the judges at the auction were experienced cuppers and Q-graders. 

However, after the judges’ calibration session, it became apparent that there was some discrepancy between scores awarded to the coffees. Typically, a one or two-point difference between the judges’ scores for the same coffee is to be expected, but at the 2022 BoP auction, there was a five or six-point difference between certain coffees. 

Moreover, Gary and Nick told me that one coffee received 100 points from two judges, which is practically unheard of at the auction.

“In my opinion, it was because the cuppers who were older favoured the more ‘traditional’ Gesha flavour profiles, which are more floral and delicate,” Nick says. “However, the cuppers who were younger seemed to be scoring more points to the more complex coffees.”

Gary, meanwhile, believes that level of cupping experience and cultural background also affected these score discrepancies.

So, what does this mean for cupping protocol?

Although age may have played some role in influencing cupping scores at the 2022 BoP auction, both Nick and Gary agree that the level of cupping experience was by far the most important factor.

Moreover, in Gary’s experience as a judge, he finds that people from Southeast Asia or the Middle East often prefer more fermented and winey flavour notes in coffee. He adds that North Americans and Europeans tend to favour more traditional flavour profiles because of cultural differences in cuisine.

Nick believes that it is also important to understand how differences in international or regional markets influence flavour preferences

“For example, in Chile, Santiago’s specialty coffee market is more developed than Buenos Aires’ in Argentina, so the market for more unique coffees is bigger there,” he says.

Addressing these issues

The SCA describes this cupping bias as “intersubjectivity”. This is when professional cuppers assess coffee quality based on which characteristics are desirable to a specific market, rather than objectively scoring a coffee.

As a result of this, the SCA started to develop its Coffee Value Assessment System, which essentially seeks to eliminate any kind of intentional or unintentional bias when cupping, as well as aiming to be more inclusive of different cultures and cuisines.

While age certainly plays a role in how we perceive coffee flavour, it’s clear that we should also consider how other factors influence this too – including experience and cultural differences.

Whether intentional or not, bias is an inescapable part of assessing coffee quality and flavour. However, as we continue to see more and more experimental processing techniques and new varieties and species, it’s clear that the spectrum of coffee flavour will also continue to widen. 

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how to ensure consistency when cupping coffee.

Photo credits: Gary Au, Urban Coffee Roasters

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Coffee grows in a number of states and regions of Brazil, but some of the most well-known include Minas Gerais, São Paulo, and Espírito Santo. However, alongside this, small quantities of coffee also grow in the Amazon rainforest – 60% of which is located in Brazil.

For decades now, large-scale agriculture has resulted in high levels of deforestation in the Amazon rainforest. Trees are typically cut down to make space for commercial cattle grazing, as well as large-scale production of crops such as soybean and corn.

In line with this, we have to ask: does coffee production also contribute to conservation issues in the Amazon? And if so, what can be done to mitigate this problem?

To find out, I spoke with Marina Yasbek, Technical Co-ordinator of the Apuí Agroforestry Coffee Project at Idesam, and Fred Pearce, author of The Land Grabbers: The New Fight Over Who Owns the Earth. Read on to learn more about sustainable coffee production in the Amazon.

You may also like our article addressing deforestation in coffee production.

Coffee production and deforestation in the Amazon

Firstly, it’s important to note that cutting down trees can be a form of sustainable forestry in some cases – especially when carried out on a small scale. For example, if smallholder farmers plant trees and then harvest them for wood, they might replant the trees at a later date.

Although it is difficult to accurately determine how much global coffee production contributes to deforestation, there is clear evidence that it occurs in coffee-growing regions, including in Brazil.

By 1820, coffee farms were common in parts of the country, mainly around Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, as well as the states of Minas Gerais, Espiríto Santo, and the northern regions of Paraná. Over the following two decades, Brazil became the biggest producer of coffee in the world. 

Naturally, as part of this, coffee production became much more widespread. This meant large areas of land were cleared to grow coffee plants, which were usually monocropped and grown in full sun conditions – leading to a significant decrease in biodiversity in certain parts of the country.

It’s believed that coffee production was first established in the Amazon rainforest in the 1970s, mostly in areas of the forest located in the state of Rondônia. 

“During this time, coffee-growing families migrated here from Southern Brazil, and brought their coffee knowledge with them,” Marina tells me. “Prior to large-scale agriculture taking place, there were many families living in the Amazon who grew crops in harmony with nature.”

Environmental issues in coffee production in the Amazon

As well as coffee production, overall agricultural production increased in the Amazon, which led to a number of environmental issues, including soil degradation and erosion.

Although these issues can be problematic in any region of the world, they are considerably more detrimental when they take place in the Amazon rainforest. 

According to the World Wildlife Federation, the Amazon accounts for 10% of all tropical rainforest on the planet. Moreover, it is also home to 10% of all known wildlife species and stores up to 76 billion tonnes of carbon dioxide – which helps to mitigate the effects of climate change. 

Between 1985 and 2016, it’s estimated that some 421,774km of the Amazon rainforest were deforested. This reduces the amount of habitable land for thousands of tropical species of animal and plant life, reduces biodiversity, and displaces both indigenous and non-indigenous local communities.

Are there any environmental protection in place?

There have been a number of policies and laws implemented by the Brazilian government to curb deforestation – including the 1965 Forest Code, which was updated in 2012. This law required landowners in the Amazon to maintain between 35% and 80% of their property (depending on the size and location of their land) as native vegetation.

Historically, however, it has been difficult to implement and monitor this policy. As a result, in 2010, all properties in the Amazon rainforest were forced to register with the Cadastro Ambiental Rural (CAR) – a government mapping system used to monitor deforestation. 

However, whether these changes have been effective is difficult to accurately determine. Moreover, they can also impact indigenous communities who have been present in the Amazon rainforest for years the most – unfairly displacing them from their native land.

What is land grabbing?

While deforestation has a clear impact on the environment, another key issue is the concept of “land grabbing”.

Essentially, land grabbing is the large-scale acquisition of property and land – usually by domestic or transnational companies, private investors, and governments. The acquired land is then bought or leased, mostly for large-scale agriculture.

Fred tells me that in the Amazon rainforest, land grabbing and deforestation go hand in hand.

“Typically, land and forests (which are usually owned by the state) are cleared for raising cattle,” he says. “The land can also be sold to commercial agricultural companies, including those which grow soy.”

Land grabbing in Brazil can be traced back to a policy in the 1970s which saw the government offer “free” land to mining and farming companies to stimulate economic growth. Since then, it’s estimated that up to 32% of Brazil’s “undesignated public forests” have been land grabbed for private use, including for agriculture.

Undoubtedly, this leads to rising levels of deforestation, environmental damage, and the displacement of indigenous people – including small-scale farming communities who help to conserve local wildlife.

“Land grabbing on state land can be legal, or legally ambiguous, but large areas of forest within indigenous territories are land grabbed illegally,” Fred tells me. 

Has land grabbing become more common?

There is also evidence that previous Brazilian governments have made it easier for large-scale companies and investors to grab land. In 2017, the Brazilian government reclassified over 1,000 square miles of land in the southern State of Amazonas as legal to grab. According to research from The Conversation, out of all illegal CAR claims for undesignated public lands and rural settlements in 2014, 94% of them were reclassified as legal in 2017.

Moreover, there is also evidence that between 2018 and 2022, deforestation across Brazil increased under the previous government’s rule. According to Reuters, average deforestation rates in that four-year period rose by some 60% compared to the previous four years.

However, the current government has claimed it will work towards zero deforestation in Brazil. This includes plans to develop a conservation agreement with the Indonesian and Congolese governments – two countries which are also home to some of the largest rainforests in the world. But whether these plans are actually implemented, especially given recent political instability in Brazil, remains to be seen.

Is coffee production in the Amazon sustainable?

Although most deforestation in the Amazon rainforest is carried out for commercial cattle grazing and agricultural purposes, coffee production is a part of the conversation, too.

For the most part, coffee is grown on a very small scale in the Amazon, which means its environmental impact is much lower compared to large-scale farming. In fact, in some cases, it can even be beneficial to the local ecosystem – especially when farmers use agroforestry methods.

This practice involves growing crops (including coffee) among trees and woodland, which can have a number of benefits to both farmers and the environment.

For instance, agroforestry ensures that coffee plants (and other crops) grow in more shady conditions. This can help to improve soil health and minimise erosion, which in turn can increase yields, as well as coffee quality and flavour.

Moreover, these farming practices provide more natural shelter for local wildlife, which can increase pollination, help to improve soil health, and even create natural systems for pest control.

Agroforestry projects in the Amazon

There are a number of agroforestry initiatives taking place in the Amazon rainforest. One of the first projects established in the region was the Apuí Coffee Project, which launched in 2015. The project is a partnership between the Institute of Conservation and Sustainable Development of the Amazon (Idesam) and 30 coffee-growing families living in Apuí, South Amazonas.

Although coffee production was initially successful in the Amazon, many farmers eventually abandoned their plots because of soil degradation, as well as their lack of access to proper farming equipment.

“Moreover, many local families told us they want to grow coffee again, but the lack of market access and technical assistance means that it’s not profitable for them,” Marina says. “They already have the knowledge to work with coffee, but it needs to be as sustainable as possible.

“As a result, Idesam helped these families to establish agroforestry projects,” she adds. “If you grow coffee using no chemical farming inputs, you can work in harmony with nature.”

Marina adds that these agroforestry practices have also helped local families to grow coffee in a more profitable way, too.

“Some families have achieved organic certification, which can strengthen their branding and marketing,” she explains.

Addressing challenges

Despite the many benefits of agroforestry in coffee production, there are also a number of challenges which farmers in the Amazon have to face.

“Now more than ever, the land in this region has a higher value,” Marina says. “For example, in Apuí, families from other regions of Brazil are trying to buy land here because they want to rear cattle.”

She adds that this is because demand for beef and other meat products is rising in line with population growth and global meat consumption. 

Farmers who are part of the Apuí Coffee Project grow 100% robusta, which is better suited to grow in shady conditions at lower altitudes. This can help to improve overall quality, however, Marina says that quality can vary between producers.

To combat this issue, Idesam runs workshops and provides technical assistance to support producers in carrying out farming best practices.

“We sell all the coffee that we grow, but we need more producers to be involved in the work that we do,” she adds. “Coffee production can be an effective way for local and native families to remain on their land, as well as maintaining the forest and wildlife.”

Sustainability continues to be a major focus across the coffee industry, and fighting deforestation is a significant component of this.

Moreover, with the European Union recently agreeing on a new law to ban the imports of goods linked to deforestation, including coffee, it will soon become financially mandatory for coffee companies to ensure they are doing their part.

The impact of this anti-deforestation law on the global coffee sector is monumental, but for some communities involved in coffee production in the Amazon, it is already a reality.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on environmentally sustainable coffee production & profitability.

Photo credits: Idesam

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With immersion brewing, the coffee is in full contact with the water for the entire duration of the extraction. This enhances the body and aftertaste of a coffee.

One of the most popular immersion brewing methods – particularly in Japan – is the syphon (also known as a siphon or vacuum brewer). This unique brewer includes two separate chambers which rely on vapour pressure and gravity to extract coffee. 

So, how do syphons work, and in turn, how do they affect coffee flavour and texture? To find out, I spoke with two baristas. Read on to learn more of their insight.

You may also like our article on which filter coffee brewing method is best for you.

A brief history of the syphon & other vacuum brewing methods

While it’s believed that the first-ever vacuum coffee brewer was invented by Loeff of Berlin sometime in the 1830s, syphons started to become commercially available in the mid-1800s thanks to French inventor Marie Fanny Amelne Massot. 

Around the same time, Scottish engineer Robert Napier designed his Napier Coffee Pot, which also creates a vacuum to brew coffee. Although the brewer received an award from The Institution of Mechanical Engineers in 1856, it was never patented.

Since then, many types of vacuum brewers have entered the market, but the most popular model is the syphon – specifically the Hario syphon, which is widely used in Japanese and Taiwanese coffee shops.

Hirona Yamamoto is a barista at LiLo Coffee Roasters in Osaka, Japan. She is also preparing to compete at the World Siphonist Championship – an event which sees competitors brew three syphons and three signature beverages in a 15-minute performance.

“In the past, and even today, the syphon has been an indispensable piece of equipment for coffee shops in Japan,” she explains.

She adds that while the first kissatens opened in Japan in the mid-18th century, they became more popular after the Second World War, when the country went through a period of economic growth.

“As part of this, more coffee shops began to open, which people used as everyday social spaces,” Hirona tells me. “Because of their aesthetic design, syphons became a fashionable item to have in coffee shops.”

Narumi Sato is the CEO of Belleville Japan, which also operates a location in Paris. She is also the 2016 World Siphonist Champion.

“During this time, the syphon was very popular,” she says. “One of the reasons why it became so common in coffee shops is because baristas are able to do other tasks while brewing coffee with it.”

Narumi adds that while most kissatens primarily focus on pour overs, she believes that interest in syphon brewing will continue to grow, especially in the specialty coffee sector.

How does it work?

Unlike most brewing methods, a syphon uses pressurised water vapour to extract coffee. Most other coffee brewing methods use either time (immersion) or gravity (percolation) to extract the flavours and aromas from coffee.

By definition, syphons and other vacuum brewing methods brew coffee in an environment where air is removed. Syphons have two brewing chambers: a top chamber, which is where the vacuum is created, and a lower chamber, which is where the brewing water is initially added.

The heat source, as well as the design of a syphon, helps to create a vacuum within the top brewing chamber. This is caused by a difference in air pressure. As the water in the lower chamber boils, some of it turns into water vapour, which in turn means its pressure rises.

As the density of water vapour is much lower than liquid water, the mixture of air and water vapour in the lower chamber expands. This continues until the spout from the top chamber is connected with the lower chamber, which causes the water to draw into the top chamber. 

When the heat source is switched off, the pressure then falls, forcing the brewed coffee back into the lower chamber – but leaving the used grounds behind.

When using any vacuum brewing method, extraction time is usually a lot shorter. This is because of the absence of oxygen and other gases. In this environment, the volatile compounds in coffee can be extracted much more quickly, as there are fewer gas particles to inhibit extraction.

This is especially noticeable with automated vacuum cold brew methods, which can extract cold brew within minutes, rather than hours.

How to brew a syphon

Although many coffee professionals claim that brewing with a syphon can be complicated and time consuming, Narumi tells me that the method is relatively straightforward.

• Add water to the lower chamber. Narumi suggests using a 1:15 ratio of 16g of coffee (ground slightly finer than for a V60) and 240g of water.
• Turn on your heat source (ideally to high heat) and place it underneath the lower chamber. No matter which brand of syphon you use, most come with a portable heat source, which is usually either a gas burner or an infrared lamp. 
• As the water heats up, attach your filter (either paper or cloth) to the top chamber, and place the spout into the lower chamber. Once the water starts boiling, a buildup of vapour pressure will cause it to move into the top chamber.
• When the majority of water reaches the top chamber, you need to stir it vigorously (traditionally using a bamboo paddle or chopsticks) to create a “whirlpool”. 
• Add the ground coffee into the water and stir, before placing the lid onto the top chamber to preserve most of the coffee’s aromas. 

Narumi explains that after 25 seconds, the heat source should be turned off, which will pull the brewed coffee back down into the lower chamber. She adds that the total brew time should be between one and one-and-a-half minutes – making it a much simpler brewing method than others.

“When you brew a pour over, you have to completely focus on it for around three minutes,” she explains. “But with a syphon, you only have to concentrate for between 20 and 30 seconds, which makes it significantly easier.”

Why is stirring your coffee so important when using a syphon?

As with any other brewing method, the right level of agitation is important if you want to make sure you get even extraction. However, according to the World Siphonist Championship, to achieve the best possible result with a syphon, you should use the double-stir technique.

This is when you first stir the water to create a “whirlpool” in the top brewing chamber, and then stir for a second time once you add the coffee to the water. 

“The first stir is the most important one,” Narumi says. This is because it ensures more even saturation of the coffee grounds once they are added to the water.

Hirona agrees, saying: “If you don’t allow the grounds to fully saturate, it is more difficult to achieve a high-quality extraction.”

While the first stir can be more vigorous, the second one should be more of a gentle fold to allow the coffee to degas – similar to a bloom when brewing a pour over. 

Ultimately, a sign of executing a high-skilled stirring technique is the formation of a dome of coffee grounds at the base of the top chamber – with larger coffee particles accumulated at the bottom.

How does syphon coffee taste?

When brewing a syphon, the coffee is in full contact with the water for the entire duration of extraction – as it is an immersion brewing method. 

However, compared to coffee brewed with other immersion methods, the syphon creates a different sensory profile, particularly in terms of texture and mouthfeel.

This is mainly a result of the vacuum created during the brewing process, as well as using a cloth filter – both of which can produce a more enhanced mouthfeel.

Narumi tells me that this may also be a reason as to why the syphon is so popular in Japan. 

“When I went to the Belleville coffee shop in Paris, baristas were describing the flavour of the coffee, but not the mouthfeel,” she says. “In Japan, people like to describe mouthfeel and different food and beverages.”

This is most likely the result of linguistic differences. Compared to the English language, for example, the Japanese language contains more words to describe mouthfeel.

Narumi adds that there are around 400 words in the Japanese language to describe mouthfeel. This is most prominent in Japanese cuisine, which tends to have much more of a focus on the texture and consistency of food. In comparison, the English language has about 80.

For example, the word torotoro (which roughly translates to “syrupy” in English) describes the texture of liquid which is slightly thicker than water.

Tips for using a syphon to brew coffee

Hirona tells me that the syphon is a very versatile brewer, and can be used by anyone – no matter their level of brewing experience.

“You can brew any kind of coffee with a syphon,” she says. “It does not matter whether the coffee is light or dark roast, or whether it’s commodity or specialty-grade.”

Narumi agrees, saying that dark roasts can often suit this brewing method well. 

“This is because of the higher amount of oils in darker roasted beans,” she explains. “The increased bitterness of these coffees will become more well-rounded, so it can result in a richer-tasting coffee.”

Many coffee professionals and home brewers use a cloth filter when making a syphon, which allows more of the coffee’s oils to be extracted – further enhancing its mouthfeel.

However, if you do use a cloth filter, you need to make sure it is clean. As cloth filters can be reused many times, if not cleaned and dried properly after every use, they can quickly attract mould and impart sour flavours in your coffee.

To avoid this, after squeezing as much water out as possible, you can store used cloth filters in the freezer and run them under hot water before use.

The syphon’s distinctive design and unique vacuum brewing system make it a great addition for specialty coffee shops and home brewing setups. 

With its rich history and unique style, it’s clear that syphons have a place in specialty coffee and will continue to for the foreseeable future.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how agitation affects filter coffee brewing.

Photo credits: Hirona Yamamoto, Kaori Umezawa, Takumi Yamashita

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All quotes from Hirona Yamamoto are translated from Japanese into English 

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Japan has a rich history of coffee consumption. From the opening of the first kissaten in the late 1880s to the emergence of third wave coffee culture in the early 2000s, the country has a longstanding relationship with coffee.

However, as well as this, a small part of Japan also technically lies in the Bean Belt, meaning it has the right climatic conditions for coffee production. The Okinawa Islands, located some 26 degrees north of the Tropics, are home to around 30 coffee farms which produce small quantities of green coffee.

To learn more about this small-scale production in Okinawa, I spoke to several local farmers. Read on to find out what they had to say about Okinawan coffee.

You may also like our article on exploring Japanese coffee shop culture.

A brief history of coffee production in Japan

It’s believed that coffee cultivation first began in Japan around 1876 on the Ogasawara Islands (also known as the Bonin Islands), which are an archipelago of over 30 subtropical and tropical islands around 1,000km south of Tokyo.

Japanese samurai and admiral Enomoto Takeaki is said to have initially proposed the idea of growing coffee on the islands to the Emperor Meiji’s government which was in power at the time. Following this, 500 coffee saplings were shipped from the Netherlands and planted on farms in the Ogasawara islands.

Some six years later, the first coffee plants were cultivated in Okinawa. However, as coffee is not native to Japan, initial trials were mostly unsuccessful. This is largely because producers had very limited knowledge and expertise, as well as little financial and technical support.

Moreover, in the early 1900s, many rural Japanese workers migrated to Brazil in search of work. A large proportion of these migrants actually worked on coffee farms, where there was a notable labour shortage.

Naturally, this meant that many of these agricultural workers came to understand more about coffee production – some of which later returned to Japan.

As such, today, many of Okinawa’s coffee trees can be genetically traced back to native Brazilian varieties.

A profile of Okinawan production

As it was not especially profitable, coffee production in Okinawa was initially more of a hobby, rather than a means of sustainable income. However, it has slowly grown over the last 120 years, and there are now about 30 coffee farms across the Okinawa Islands.

Most coffee is grown in the northern Yanburu region of the main island, however, a small number of plants are also cultivated on neighbouring islands.

The majority of Okinawan coffee is shade grown and intercropped with other tropical plants such as mango and banana. Furthermore, coffee is produced at very low altitudes, usually between 150 and 500 m.a.s.l.

Takuyuki Matayoshi is the President of Matayoshi Coffee Farm in the Yanbaru region. He tells me that he only grows arabica plants on his farm, which are mostly the Yellow Bourbon variety, with a smaller number of Red Bourbon plants. 

“Yellow Mundo Novo is also another common variety in Okinawa,” he adds.

Cherries are typically harvested from October to April. Once picked, each farm generally processes their coffee on-site.

Takuyuki explains that he uses mostly natural and honey processes at Matayoshi Farm, but notes that other methods are sometimes used by farmers in Okinawa.

What makes this coffee unique?

Although Okinawa is by no means a major coffee producing region, the expertise on the island and the conditions mean it does have the potential to yield high-quality beans.

The island’s unique terrain and climate can impart desirable flavours to the coffee – with some producers and roasters claiming that no two harvests yield the same results. As well as this, some producers are carrying out more experimental processing methods to increase quality.

Yoshiyuki Nakamura is the owner of Mame Porepore, a roaster based in Okinawa. He also placed second in the 2018 World Roasting Championship.

“I enjoy the different flavours in the coffee each year,” he tells me. “I think that Okinawa’s coffee production is still developing, so farmers’ knowledge and skills will continue to improve.”

Takuyuki describes some of the prominent flavours and qualities of Okinawan coffee.

“It’s easy to drink, with notes of black tea and a clean and refreshing aftertaste,” he says. “Also, because it grows at very low altitudes, the beans are soft which affects how it’s roasted.”

However, unfavourable weather conditions (such as typhoons) mean that some harvests can produce very low yields. Takuyuki explains that sometimes this means that no coffee can be sold.

However, in some cases, 100g of Okinawan coffee can cost up to ¥4,300 (around US $32). 

In turn, this means many local consumers are not able to afford it, but there is growing interest from Tokyo coffee shops and roasters, as well as further afield.

Agrotourism & Okinawan coffee farms

As Okinawa is a prominent tourist destination, some coffee farms on the island have capitalised by doubling as agrotourism ventures. Many provide guided farm tours and some even have spaces for visitors to stay.

These tours can be an integral part of coffee production in Okinawa as they can help to diversify farmers’ income – especially when harvests are lower than expected. 

“We invest money in running guided tours so we can also reinvest back into our farms,” Takuyuki says.

By offering these experiences, guests can tour farm facilities and understand more about the coffee supply chain.

Takayuki and his team run guided tours and educational workshops about coffee farming and processing. This, he says, ultimately helps to raise awareness. Visitors are also encouraged to participate, and drink some of the farm’s coffee as part of the process.

“Guests are then able to understand how much effort goes into one cup of coffee,” Takuyuki explains.

Unfortunately, during the pandemic, Okinawan tourism saw a sharp drop in revenue, which ultimately impacted producers, too. Alongside low yields, Takuyuki tells me that it’s been difficult for some producers to remain profitable.

Could it be successful on an international scale?

While there are a number of challenges facing Okinawan coffee production, arguably the biggest one is scale. With just 30 coffee farms across the island, it is hard to see it ever becoming anything beyond a niche coffee origin which blends cultivation with agrotourism.

However, to try and improve its international presence and share its unique insight, some local farmers have established the Okinawa Coffee Association – which is based at the University of Ryukyus on the main island.

Founded in 2014, the association carries out research, as well as holding seminars and workshops, to disseminate more information to Okinawan coffee producers and beyond.

The association’s ultimate goal is to improve the island’s agricultural practices, as well as providing more technical and financial support from the Japanese government. Effectively, it encourages farmers to not only grow, harvest, and process their own coffee, but to also market and sell it themselves in an effort to boost the local economy. 

Furthermore, in 2020, the association hosted the first ever Okinawa Coffee Summit. At the event, local producers – as well as coffee farmers from Taiwan – were able to network and share their expertise, and hopefully establish more profitable coffee production for the island.

While Japan will never be able to fulfil its consumption with domestically-grown coffee, it’s clear that Okinawan coffee is worth talking about. In the years to come, support from groups such as the Okinawa Coffee Association could see the islands begin championing a new niche, signature agricultural product.

Furthermore, despite the challenges of growing coffee on the islands, the producers there are clearly resilient. They are experimenting, and quality continues to be a part of the conversation.

Yoshiyuki is certainly right in saying: “The highlight of Okinawan coffee today is how it will grow and develop in the future.” But what exactly the future will hold remains to be seen.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring Sicilian coffee production.

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However, as with any newly emerging coffee processing technique, farmers need to take great care when manipulating fermentation to process coffee. By tightly controlling a range of variables, producers can create some truly wonderful flavours in their coffees and increase final cup scores.

But how can farmers do this in a way which balances success and profitability? To find out, I spoke with four industry experts to understand more about the process. Read on for more of their insight on fermentation and coffee flavour and quality.

You may also like our article on how to ensure consistency in coffee fermentation & processing.

What is fermentation?

Despite its recent growth in popularity in the specialty coffee sector, fermentation has long been a part of coffee production. 

All coffee undergoes some level of fermentation. As soon as cherries are harvested, the sugars and acids contained within the mucilage of the coffee fruit (a sticky, translucent substance which surrounds the seeds) begin to break down. This is largely where the sweetness in coffee derives from.

With washed coffee processing, farmers soak depulped cherries in water for several hours to remove any remaining flesh and mucilage. This usually results in a cleaner-tasting and brighter flavour profile, and can highlight more of the coffee’s acidity.

However, over the past few years, there has been an increasing focus on controlling fermentation during processing, as well as using selected microbes to facilitate fermentation. These methods can have a number of benefits, which include enhancing flavours and preserving them for longer. 

When we talk about fermentation, however, we must differentiate between the two main ways by which it takes place. These are anaerobic and aerobic fermentation – which are different due to the presence or absence of oxygen.

When including selected yeasts in coffee processing, the presence or absence of oxygen triggers various reactions, namely the growth or breakdown of a number of substrates. These substrates produce various chemical and volatile compounds, such as acids and alcohol.

In general, anaerobic fermentation is most common, whether the cherries are in sealed or open tanks. With open tanks, generally speaking, only the surface is exposed to oxygen, which means anaerobic fermentation occurs further down the tank. This allows the sugars to break down over a longer period of time, creating sweeter and more complex flavours.

In theory, the longer the duration of fermentation is, the more intense the flavours in the coffee will be. This is because more flavour compounds are created and transferred into the coffee beans over longer periods. However, it’s important that this process is controlled to facilitate the transfer of desirable flavours.

In order to carry out fermentation successfully, farmers can add selected microorganisms (which include yeasts and bacteria) to better facilitate fermentation. One of the most commonly used yeasts in the coffee industry is Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which is also widely used to make bread, wine, and beer. 

However, in recent years, many coffee farmers have started to branch out and use different microorganisms, which can result in a number of different sensory profiles.

Camille Duez is the Coffee and Cocoa Fermentation Global Technical Support specialist at Lalcafé, a company which specialises in the development, production, and marketing of yeasts and bacteria.

“We develop and produce yeasts which are known to result in desirable flavour profiles in coffee,” she says. “Many of the flavours you perceive in fermented coffee are a result of the strain of yeast used in the process,” she explains. 

How can yeast inoculation affect coffee flavour and quality?

Although it’s often said that fermentation can help to enhance coffee quality and flavour, producers need to understand more about how the process works in order to carry it out successfully.

Dr. Renaud Boulanger is the coordinator of the Sensory Quality of Fresh and Processed Products department at the Mixt Research Unit at CIRAD, a French agronomic research institute.

“During fermentation, the breakdown of sugars and acids by the yeast produces aromatic and volatile compounds,” he says. “These compounds are then secreted into the water (also known as the fermentative medium) and are absorbed by the green coffee beans.”

Renaud explains that there are two ways this can happen.

“One way is through passive transfer,” he says. “Because of the difference in compound concentration between the water and the green coffee, the aromatic compounds move from the most concentrated area to the least concentrated.

“Active transfer, meanwhile, is when specific proteins allow the green coffee to absorb the aromatic compounds,” he adds.

But understanding which aromatic compounds are transferred from the yeast to green coffee beans is also equally important.

In a 2020 study entitled Transfer kinetics of labelled aroma compounds from liquid media into coffee beans during simulated wet processing conditions, the transfer of three compounds from yeast to green coffee was measured. 

The study analysed four different coffee samples, all of which had various amounts of pulp attached, including depulped cherries with no mucilage and parchment, as well as depulped cherries with only parchment.

The three compounds measured in the study were butanal, 2-phenylethanol, and isoamyl acetate. 

“We chose these compounds because they often result in more herbaceous, floral, and fruity flavours in coffee,” Renaud tells me. 

Specifically, butanal is responsible for apple, chocolate, and bread-like flavours in coffee, while the presence of 2-phenylethanol creates more floral notes. Isoamyl acetate, meanwhile, can produce more tropical flavour notes, such as banana.

The study found that out of all three compounds, the transfer of 2-phenylethanol was by far the highest at all levels of pulp attachment. However, all compounds produced by yeasts can transfer to green coffee, albeit at different rates and concentrations.

How can producers control the transfer of flavour?

In essence, the 2020 study indicates that using different yeasts during fermentation can exacerbate and heighten different flavours in coffee. This means producers can select different yeasts dependent on the sensory profile they want to create for a specific coffee.

Lalcafé produces six different yeast strains, which have different fermentative properties that in turn enhance a variety of flavour compounds in coffee. Ultimately, this means farmers can create a more diverse range of flavour profiles.

Jean Faleiros is the owner of Fazenda El Dorado in Alta Mogiana, Brazil. He tells me how he selects certain strains of yeast to create specific flavours in his coffee.

“If I want to create a more fruity flavour profile, with notes of red fruits, I use the Lalcafé Intenso yeast strain,” he says. “If I want to produce a more exotic sensory profile, I use the Lalcafé Oro strain. 

“For a more clean and bright coffee, I use the Lalcafé BSC yeast strain,” he adds, explaining that this Lalcafé strain helps to break down the mucilage on coffee cherries more quickly.

With regards to improving coffee quality, lactic acid bacteria are becoming more commonly used by producers to result in cleaner and brighter coffees, sometimes used alongside yeasts. 

“When using yeast, the body, flavours, sweetness, and complexity of a coffee can increase,” Camille explains. “When you also add lactic acid bacteria, such as Lalcafé Bactifresh product, you can also enhance the brightness and clarity of a coffee.”

Jean tells me: “In my experience, controlled fermentation using yeasts helped to improve the quality of my coffee, as well as creating flavour profiles that were previously impossible to produce without using inoculation.”

Ultimately, controlling the transfer of flavour during fermentation comes down to which types of flavours the farmer is looking to produce in a coffee. 

This is especially beneficial for producers as they can create more unique sensory experiences for a range of different markets – helping to differentiate their product and potentially meaning they can receive a higher price per pound for each lot.

“I know which flavour profile each of my customers prefers,” Jean says. “Each market has its own preferences, and using yeast helps me to create more specific and repeatable flavour profiles.”

However, it is important to note that many other variables will also influence coffee flavour and quality – such as coffee variety, altitude, and the nutrient content of the soil, for example. This means producers need to also keep these factors in mind when carrying out fermentation.

Moreover, as yeasts are living microorganisms, producers need to be mindful when using them.

“Yeasts are living single-celled microorganisms,” Camille says. “Essentially, this means it’s not easy to control everything during the fermentation process. 

“There are also a number of other factors which affect the final cup profile, including terroir, climatic conditions (such as temperature), cherry ripeness, and the quality of water used to grow and process coffee,” she adds.

Other considerations

Alongside influencing coffee quality and flavour, producers also need to take into account a number of other factors when using yeasts during fermentation.

“When carrying out anaerobic fermentation, for example, we need to control temperature, pressure, pH, and several other variables,” Jean says.

Furthermore, many producers also focus on the total fermentation time.

In theory, the longer the fermentation time, the more aromatic and volatile compounds will be absorbed by the green coffee.

In the Transfer kinetics of labelled aroma compounds from liquid media into coffee beans during simulated wet processing conditions study, the concentration of the 2-phenylethanol compound increased throughout fermentation when using Lalcafé’s Oro, Cima, and Intenso yeast strains.

However, the concentration of other compounds, namely isoamyl acetate, peaked at 24 hours and then began to steadily decline past this point during fermentation – meaning controlling total fermentation time has a significant effect on flavour.

Other processes also take place during fermentation, such as germination. This results in the degradation of certain flavour compounds, or even a reverse transfer of them. There has to be a balance – which is why fermentation duration is so key.

As well as fermentation time, the amount of pulp retained on the coffee cherries is also important to consider.

The results of the study also found that green coffee containing parchment (a paper-like skin covering the beans) absorbed less aromatic compounds created by the yeast. This is because parchment can act as a molecular filter, meaning producers may need to take this into account when fermenting their coffee.

With the exception of wet hull processing, parchment is kept on the coffee beans as they are processed. Removing the parchment could prove to unveil a range of new flavour profiles – but producers should be mindful that this could impact the roasting process, too.

Roasting fermented coffees

While producers certainly need to understand how fermentation affects coffee quality and flavour, roasters also have to know so they can optimise their roast profiles.

Pedro and João Foster are the co-owners of Fuzz Cafés in Rio de Janeiro. They have purchased coffee from Jean for some time.

“We have been roasting the Abacaxi ‘pineapple’ coffee for around three years now,” says Pedro.

João tells me how the coffee’s flavour profile has developed over the years.

“In the first harvest year, we tasted pineapple and flavours similar to black pepper,” he explains. “In the second year, there were more lemon notes, as well as pineapple, and the coffee scored 90 points. 

“It can be difficult to maintain such a consistent flavour profile, but it shows how useful it can be to predict flavour profiles,” he adds.

However, certain factors need to be taken into account when roasting fermented coffees.

“Traditional Brazilian fermented green coffees will stay fresh for up to four months, and the more delicate flavours will deteriorate more quickly,” João says. “But we recently roasted robusta, which had been fermented with Lalcafé’s Cima yeast strain, 18 months after harvest and it was still bright and clean-tasting.”

Pedro offers some advice when roasting yeast inoculated coffees. 

“We often roast with a higher air flow, so it’s more similar to convection roasting,” he explains. “This can help to highlight the more subtle fruity and floral flavours.”

There’s no denying the growing popularity of experimentally processed coffee among roasters and baristas in the specialty coffee sector, and it’s likely that demand will continue to increase.

For farmers looking to produce these coffees, investing in the right equipment and resources beforehand is essential – as is being prepared to experiment slowly and work your way up towards processing like this on a larger scale.

And while experimental processing may not be viable for some producers, it’s certainly clear that controlled fermentation can have a number of benefits when it is leveraged effectively.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on coffee roasting & experimental processing methods.

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However, just like many other hospitality sectors, the specialty coffee industry experiences high staff turnover rates. The National Restaurant Association’s 2022 annual report found that as many as 78% of restaurant operators in the US don’t have enough staff to meet customer demand – largely fuelled by the Covid-19 pandemic.

The problem is complex, but covers a number of reasons, such as low pay and unsociable working hours. Nevertheless, it’s still vital that coffee shop owners are able to hire skilled and passionate baristas to ensure their businesses remain successful.

So, how can coffee shop owners hire staff who want to have long-term careers in specialty coffee? To learn more, I spoke with three industry professionals who provided some insight. Read on to find out what they had to say.

You may also like our article on career progression for specialty coffee baristas.

Why is staff turnover so high in the coffee industry?

Around the world, the hospitality industry has one of the highest turnover rates of any sector. The UK alone has an annual staff turnover rate of 30% – double that of any other industry in the country.

Moreover, according to a 2019 report from Deputy, some of the most common reasons for leaving a role in the hospitality sector are unsociable working hours, low pay, fewer benefits (such as holiday and sick pay), and a lack of career prospects. 

In some cases, this can also be true for baristas. Despite a growing appreciation for the skills and knowledge of specialty coffee baristas, there can be an unfortunate prevailing stigma around working in coffee shops in the long term.

Jana Elicker is the head of training for Supremo Coffee in Munich, Germany. She explains that one of the several complex reasons for this stigma is that baristas are generally paid lower wages than other coffee professionals – leaving them vulnerable. Ultimately, this means they are more likely to find other work.

“[Working as a barista in a coffee shop sometimes] isn’t lucrative,” she says.

Ryan Garrick is the Head of Coffee at WatchHouse in London, UK. He echoes similar sentiments to Jana and says that wages are sometimes too low for baristas to live above their means. 

“Even if you are the best barista in the world, there is still a low pay ceiling because of unfair perceptions that a cup of coffee has low overall value,” he says. “As well as this, lower pay is also based on the value of the person who is preparing the drink.

“In the mixology industry, meanwhile, people will easily pay £20 (US $23.61) for a cocktail because it is served by a highly-skilled bartender,” he adds. “Perhaps if there was the same sentiment in coffee shops, this would encourage more long-term career development for baristas.”

Depending on the size of the business, coffee shops can already run on tight margins – meaning they may have lower budgets to spend on hiring new staff and paying baristas’ wages.

Finding the best applicants

For many coffee shops around the world, experience is an essential part of hiring new coffee shop staff. Business owners are looking for people who are not only passionate about specialty coffee, but also have a solid understanding of how to prepare high-quality beverages.

However, the average age of hospitality staff tends to be younger than workers in other industries. In Scotland, for instance, the average age is 34 years old – four years younger than the next “youngest” industry.

Because of age differences, coffee shop staff may be less experienced when compared to workers in other sectors. Ultimately, this means coffee shop owners need to look for more in a barista than just practical skills and coffee knowledge.

Fotis Vlachakis is the co-owner of Bridge Urban Coffee Roasters in Greece.

“[In my opinion], personality is more important than coffee knowledge,” he says. “We can train them to be a good barista, but we can’t change their way of thinking.”

He adds that coffee shop owners should look for staff who are “hard-working, honest, patient, and willing to develop new skills”.

How can coffee shop owners support baristas?

Despite the fact that staff turnover in coffee shops is a complex issue, there are a number of ways that business owners can retain baristas for longer periods of time.

Training & career development opportunities

Although it’s arguably the most obvious way of hiring long-term staff, it can be difficult for coffee shop owners to find time for adequate training – whether for improving coffee knowledge or customer service skills.

Jana agrees, but says that training is mutually beneficial. “If you train staff to a high standard then it’s more profitable for your business in the long term,” she says.

She explains that at Supremo Coffee, the training is largely led by baristas themselves.

“[It’s important to ask them] where they see their strengths lie and where they think they can improve,” she tells me. “We create training courses based on what they want to learn and what their goals are for working in the coffee industry. 

“If we can incorporate training into their daily routines then that’s even better,” she adds.

Training can also be outsourced, too – such as the Specialty Coffee Association’s Coffee Skills Programme. 

Fotis tells me that this approach can help to create a mutually-beneficial “partnership” between the barista and the business.

“As a result of training opportunities, coffee shops can increase productivity and potentially expand the business – becoming a more competitive and stronger brand in the industry.”

Engagement

For most baristas, the majority of daily tasks are largely the same for every shift – potentially leaving some staff unchallenged in their job roles.

“Working in a coffee shop can be fun, but if you work in the hospitality industry for a long time, at some point it may feel like you’re ready for something different and new,” Jana says. 

Creating new opportunities for baristas can encourage them to remain engaged – potentially increasing their job satisfaction.

“You need to find new ways to motivate people and provide them with a ‘new’ side to working behind the bar so that they can then further their skills, develop their knowledge, or just have a break from the same everyday conversations,” she adds.

For instance, Jana suggests inviting staff to attend community or industry events, such as running a booth at a trade show. Ryan, meanwhile, says involving baristas in conversations about the roasting process can not only increase engagement, but also encourage career progression – meaning staff may stay with the company for longer.

Investing in staff

Unfortunately, because some coffee shop owners expect high staff turnover rates, they may not invest in their staff enough. This is largely because investment can be expensive, and business owners might not want to lose money if baristas leave their positions after a short period of time.

However, investing in the goals and ambitions of employees is one of the many ways in which coffee shop owners can express their interest in retaining long-term staff.

One of the most prominent examples is ensuring there are prospects for salary growth and schedule flexibility. Baristas often work unsociable hours, such as weekends and late evenings, so coffee shop owners should take these factors into consideration.

Furthermore, providing pathways for career progression to more senior roles – such as head barista or management positions – can encourage baristas to remain with the company for longer.

Jana encourages coffee shop owners to regularly liaise with baristas on their long-term career plans. “Find a way together [to grow together],” she says. “This has helped us to build long-term relationships with our staff.” 

Positive work environments

Another key factor which can increase staff retention is creating a healthy working environment – both physically and mentally.

WatchHouse operates several coffee shops across London. Ryan tells me that the location and opening times can play a significant role in baristas’ job satisfaction. 

“At our shops which open from Monday to Friday only, we’ve noticed that staff retention is higher because the baristas deal with fewer tourists and have less difficult interactions with customers,” Ryan says. “These locations have the same team working every day and most of the customers are the same every day, too. 

“Even the customers have better relationships with the baristas, so if someone is having a bad day they can understand each other better,” he adds.

Although the location and opening hours of a coffee shop are largely dictated by consumer demand, and therefore difficult to control, business owners can still find ways to make this more manageable for baristas.

Open and clear communication, as well as organising the bar to improve workflow, are just some of the ways which they can achieve this.

Career progression options for baristas

Developing a career in specialty coffee may not be the plan for every barista, but for those who are interested, it’s not always so straightforward.

For staff who work in smaller coffee shops, there may be limitations as to how far they can progress with the company. Generally speaking, most baristas express interest in moving into roasting, but this can come with its own set of challenges.

“Pulling espresso shots can only make so much money for a business,” Ryan says. “If baristas want to be able to do things which are of higher value for a company, they need to look at what else they can bring to the table.”

Diversifying skillsets is one of these ways – this may mean picking up some experience cupping and scoring coffees or providing support to the marketing team, for instance.

Ryan also encourages baristas to consider gaining more experience at larger coffee companies if possible, too.

“You can develop more skills, such as understanding the bigger picture of a coffee business, which are ultimately more desirable,” he says.

For coffee shops, hiring long-term staff is an opportunity for mutually-beneficial growth. Not only can businesses be more financially stable, but baristas can also better develop their skills and knowledge – potentially improving their long-term career prospects.

In order to reduce staff turnover rates, coffee shop owners should focus on improving employee satisfaction and engagement. By doing so, they can help to strengthen the specialty coffee industry overall.

Looking for coffee sector job roles? Head on over to PDG Jobs and take a look!

Photo credits: Fotis Vlachakis, Supremo Coffee, Sinan Muslu, Darren Rowlands

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